Alaska Marine Highway Ferry: The Scenic, Offbeat Alternative to a Cruise Ship

For years, the Alaska Marine Highway ferry had been on my radar—a rugged, offbeat way to get to and through Alaska. Some call it the “poor man’s Alaskan cruise,” a no-frills passage through wild coastlines, small port towns, and scenery you don’t see from the highway—unless you bring your car like I did, which isn’t exactly cheap.

Still, that mix of utility and adventure made it the perfect kickoff to my EV road trip to the Arctic Ocean. Instead of grinding out miles behind the wheel, I got to settle into Alaska ferry life—bunk bed, barstool, or bow deck—and watch the state roll by at a slower pace.

This is my complete Alaska ferry review: life on board, cabins, food, activities, scenic highlights, shore excursions, and tips you won’t find in glossy cruise brochures.

Alaska Marine Highway Ferry: What It’s Really Like

Picture a no-frills cruise ship mixed with a public transit system. That’s essentially the Alaska Marine Highway ferry. Part transport, part bucket-list journey, it serves remote Alaskan communities and delivers an unforgettable experience to anyone open to roughing it a little.

My original plan was to take the ferry to Skagway, but since I’d been there before, I decided to switch things up. I boarded the M/V Columbia—one of the mainline ferries—and it exceeded all expectations.

I traveled the Bellingham to Juneau leg, spent a night exploring the capital, and then continued on to Haines. A friend had recommended the drive from Haines to Haines Junction, calling it one of the most scenic routes in the Yukon, and it did not disappoint. You can read more about that in my EV road trip report to Dawson City and along the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Ocean.

Amenities on the Alaska Ferry

The Alaska Marine Highway ferries aren’t luxury liners, but they’re far from bare bones. This isn’t a Viking river cruise, but there are some surprises.

There’s a small movie theater that screens films on rotation, which makes for a cozy diversion on rainy afternoons. Lockers are available if you want to stow bags or valuables, and the lounges offer plenty of comfortable seating.

By night, those same spaces transform into makeshift dorms, with passengers stretched out in recliners or curled up with sleeping bags in quiet corners. It gave the ship a casual, communal feel—something between a hostel and a road trip rest stop.

For connectivity, I had planned to rely on my own Starlink setup (which I normally use on the road—see my full review of installing Starlink in my EV), but to my surprise the ferry was trialing internet service onboard. It worked remarkably well throughout the ship, a big change from the days when offline entertainment was your only option.

That said, there was still a massive DVD library near the purser’s desk—so if you happen to travel old-school with a portable DVD player, you’d be well covered.

Traveling with pets adds another layer. They aren’t allowed above deck and must stay in the car deck, but the crew schedules regular visiting hours so owners can head down, walk them, and clean up as needed.

I actually used those breaks as a chance to grab food from my cooler, since I couldn’t run it in my cabin. In hindsight, I wish I’d packed my Anker C300 battery pack; it would have made keeping things powered up and food chilled much easier.

All of these touches—simple but thoughtful—made the trip more comfortable. Combined with the people, the scenery, and the slow pace, they turned what could have been just a long ride into something far more memorable.

Alaska Ferry Routes: Where You Can Go

The Alaska ferry routes span more than 3,500 miles of coastline, connecting Washington State to some of Alaska’s most iconic and isolated towns. Stretching from Bellingham all the way to Dutch Harbor, the system gives travelers access to places you can’t reach by road.

My route offered a slice of the famed Inside Passage Alaska ferry experience, with lush forested islands, sleepy fishing towns, and plenty of coastal wildlife along the way.

Popular stops include:

• Ketchikan
• Sitka
• Juneau
• Haines
• Skagway

For those visiting Juneau or Ketchikan on an Alaska ferry layover (or even a cruise stop), these towns are destinations in their own right. I’ve shared more on what to do in Juneau and what to see in Ketchikan in my dedicated guides—both packed with tips for making the most of your time ashore.

That’s the beauty of the Alaska ferry: it’s not just transportation, it’s part of the adventure.

Alaska Ferry Schedule: How It Works

Schedules vary seasonally, and weather can impact sailings. My advice? Build buffer time into your plans. Onboard announcements kept us informed, but not all departures are prompt. My Juneau stop allowed for a quick overnight, but some ports are only touched briefly—often in the middle of the night.

You can check the current Alaska ferry schedule directly on the AMHS ferry site.

Alaska Ferry Prices and Cost

So, how much does it cost?

It depends. Without a vehicle, foot passenger fares are fairly reasonable. Once you add a car—and especially a cabin—the price climbs quickly. For my trip from Bellingham to Juneau (with a cabin) and onward to Haines (with my EV), here’s what I paid in USD:

• Passenger ticket: $466
• 15 ft EV (vehicle fare): $1,126
• 4-berth cabin (Bellingham → Juneau leg): $806

👉 Total: $2,398

It’s not cheap, but remember this is transportation, accommodation, and sightseeing rolled into one. Considering the miles of driving it saved, the wildlife views from the deck, and the chance to actually relax on the way north to Dawson City and beyond, I found the Alaska ferry prices well worth it.

Alaska Ferry Map and Planning Routes

If you’re confused about how it all fits together, you’re not alone. The Alaska ferry map is a web of interconnected lines linking dozens of communities. There are mainline routes like mine (Bellingham to Juneau) and regional shuttles connecting smaller towns.

If you’re mapping a trip, check out the Alaska Marine Highway ferry map online. It’s a key tool in planning multi-stop journeys and comparing options with flying or driving.

Alaska Ferry Reservations and Booking

I highly recommend booking early—especially if you want a cabin or are bringing a vehicle. I ended up in a four-berth room because that’s all that was available. I hoped to downgrade before departure or maybe make friends to split it with, but neither panned out. Still, having that extra space was awesome.

You can book directly on the AMHS ferry site.

Alaska Ferry Tickets and Cabins

There are multiple cabin types: solo rooms, 2-berth, 4-berth, some with private bathrooms and some more spartan. My cabin was basic but comfortable. I slept better than any night on the Dempster Highway, which says a lot.

No frills, but clean, functional, and with one of the best ocean views I’ve ever had. I woke up one morning, opened the curtain, and saw a whale tail slap the surface just outside.

Alaska Ferry Accommodations: Cabins vs Camping

Want to rough it? The Alaska ferries have a camping deck where you can pitch a tent. It’s a memorable experience, but keep in mind it can get cold at night and the back deck sometimes picks up engine fumes.

Directly above the camping deck are loungers with overhead heaters. They aren’t private, but in a pinch they’re more comfortable than a tent and a popular choice for budget travelers who don’t want to spring for a cabin.

I debated it myself, but in the end I was glad I chose my overpriced (and comfy) room. Still, Alaska ferry camping is a story in itself—and one you won’t forget.

Alaska Ferry Food and Dining

I boarded expecting overpriced, bland food. I was wrong.

There are two main options on board: a cafeteria and a sit-down restaurant.

• Cafeteria: The go-to for quick, affordable meals. Think burgers, sandwiches, breakfast plates, and rotating daily specials. Portions were hearty, and prices were on par with a casual diner. There’s also a communal microwave and toaster for passengers who bring their own groceries—something many regulars recommend. I made good use of those for simple breakfasts and late-night snacks.
• Restaurant: A step up in quality without breaking the bank. The menu leaned on regional favorites, and the salmon I ordered was much better than I expected from a state-run ferry. Prices hovered around $15–$25 for mains. Best of all, the dining room had large window seating with sweeping views of the Inside Passage—making every meal feel like dinner with a show.

Beyond meals, the bar/lounge offered a quiet escape. Local Alaskan craft beers were $6.50 a pint, canned cocktails ran about $12, and the atmosphere was relaxed—more locals swapping stories than rowdy crowds. Entertainment was low-key too: one night, karaoke took over until the machine got stuck looping R.E.M.’s “Losing My Religion.” After the tenth spin, I was ready to lose mine.

Overall, the food and drink scene on the Alaska ferry surprised me. It’s not fine dining, but it’s good value, filling, and far from the bland, overpriced fare I braced myself for.

Bringing Vehicles on the Alaska Ferry

The real MVP of the trip? My car.

Bringing your EV means you can hit the ground running when you dock. No need for taxis or long walks from remote ferry terminals. Just hop in and go.

That said, ferries from Bellingham fill up fast with vehicles, especially in summer. Book well in advance and know your vehicle dimensions.

Shore Excursions: Making the Most of Short Stops

One of the underrated perks of traveling by Alaska ferry is the chance to see a bit of the towns along the way. The stops are often short—sometimes only an hour or two—but if you plan ahead, you can make the most of them.

I brought my bike to maximize every minute ashore, but cabs were also available since the ferry terminals aren’t always close to the main sights or city centers.

Ketchikan

In Ketchikan, I hopped on my bike and rode from the ferry terminal to Creek Street, a historic boardwalk perched over the water. The real magic? Watching spawning salmon fight their way upstream while fat seals waited patiently for a buffet. It felt like stepping into a nature documentary.

I grabbed a hot coffee and fresh scone from Island Brew Coffee, then treated myself to a smoked salmon donut from Jellyfish Donuts—a weird but oddly satisfying local snack. Before heading back to the ferry, I sat and watched seaplanes take off overhead, a surreal and very Alaskan touch as we prepared to depart.

Wrangell

At Wrangell, I took another short ride to visit the Petroglyph Beach State Historic Site, home to ancient rock carvings (not “pictyographs,” as I mistakenly thought at the time). The site holds dozens of Tlingit petroglyphs, some believed to be over 8,000 years old. It’s a peaceful place with a wild energy and well worth the short ride or walk from the terminal.

Our next stop, Petersburg, was brief—just long enough to stretch my legs—but it rewarded me with an incredible sunset over the harbor. The small fishing town, often called “Little Norway,” gave me one of my favorite snapshots of the trip, even in the short time ashore.

Juneau

The real highlight of my shore time came with an overnight in Juneau. With more than just a quick layover, I was able to see the city at a slower pace and get beyond the waterfront.

I began the day at Mendenhall Glacier, arriving early enough to have much of the trail to myself. Watching the first light spill across the glacier without the usual crowds was unforgettable. From there, I drove over to Auke Lake, where the calm water mirrored the mountains and offered a quieter view of the area.

Later, I headed into town. The Alaskan Brewing Company was a worthwhile stop for a sampler of their classics and a few limited releases. Downtown Juneau blends historic Gold Rush–era buildings with modern shops and cafés.

On the day I visited, three cruise ships were in port, and the sidewalks were packed—a sharp contrast to arriving by the Alaska ferry with only a fraction of that crowd.

I ended the night with a crab dinner, the kind of meal that felt perfectly in step with being in Alaska’s capital—fresh, simple, and exactly what I needed after a full day.

For logistics: the ferry terminal is at Auke Bay, about 12 miles from downtown Juneau. Having my car made it easy to cover ground quickly, and most ferry travelers will likely have theirs too. Still, taxis, rideshares, and a public bus also connect the terminal with downtown for those traveling without vehicles.

If you’re planning to stay overnight, I’d suggest booking somewhere central like the Four Points by Sheraton Juneau which is close to the waterfront and within walking distance of restaurants, making it aconvenient bases for a short stopover.

Haines

The ferry ride ended for me in Haines, a town that felt both rugged and welcoming—an ideal place to pause before continuing north to Whitehorse and the Dempster Highway.

One of the highlights was visiting Chilkoot River State Recreation Site, where I stood on the riverbank and watched grizzly bears pull salmon straight from the water. It was raw, wild Alaska at its best, and one of those moments you don’t forget.

I also made time for a hike; Battery Point Trail was a standout, an easy but rewarding route that winds through forest before opening up to sweeping views of Lynn Canal. With glaciers in the distance and waves lapping the shoreline, it was the perfect way to stretch my legs after days of sailing.

Back in town, I grabbed a coffee at Mountain Market, the local go-to for caffeine, fresh food, and supplies. The pace in Haines is unhurried, the kind of place where you linger over a mug and chat with whoever’s at the next table.

From there, it was time to continue north—refueled, caffeinated, and carrying memories of bears, trails, and small-town Alaska that would set the tone for the long road ahead.

Life On Board: Views, Wildlife, and Relaxation

Life on board was never dull.

There were puzzles, card games, a giant chess set, and clusters of people gathered around board games and paperbacks. It didn’t take long to meet fellow travelers—families on summer trips, backpackers heading north, and a few grizzled prospector types who looked like they’d stepped straight out of a Yukon gold rush poster. The ferry had a way of creating its own little community, especially on long sailings.

One afternoon I struck up a conversation with a passenger relocating from Kentucky to Juneau for work. We sat in the sun on the upper deck, chatting about the slower pace of life she was looking forward to and the outdoor adventures waiting for her, all while watching Ketchikan disappear behind us.

In the lounge, I talked with bartenders who seemed to know everyone on board, and out on deck, I noticed a woman who danced by herself for hours—just moving to stay warm and keep the blood flowing. Encounters like these gave the trip its own rhythm.

But the real entertainment was outside. From the deck, we passed countless waterfalls cascading down green cliffs and lighthouses perched on remote islands. I spotted bald eagles riding thermals, several whales breaching in the distance, and the occasional tugboat or sailboat dwarfed by the vastness of the coastline. Watching it all unfold with a beer in hand on the top deck felt surreal.

The most scenic stretches were through the Inside Passage, where the fjord-like channels could rival Norway: narrow waterways flanked by steep, forested peaks, with mist curling up from the trees. It never got old. Still, the final leg between Juneau and Haines was the showstopper. With mountains rising directly out of the sea and the evening light draping everything in gold, I sat at the bow for hours, just soaking it all in.

Conclusion: Is the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry Worth It?

Absolutely.

Between the scenery, the quirky vibe, budget-friendly dining, unique shore excursions, and the balance of solitude and community, I’d do this again in a heartbeat. In fact, I know I will. The Alaska Marine Highway is the kind of experience that sticks with you long after you’ve disembarked—part adventure, part transportation, part floating community.

That said, my next ferry north will likely be the BC Ferries route from Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert. I’m curious how the two compare—Canada’s Inside Passage versus Alaska’s. Will the scenery rival the fjord-like channels I saw between Juneau and Haines? Will the vibe feel as rugged and communal? Time will tell, but one thing’s certain: the bar has been set high.

For now, the Alaska Marine Highway ferry holds a special place in my heart—and in my travel log. And if you’re even remotely tempted, take the leap. It’s not just a way to get north; it’s an adventure in itself.

READ MORE: That Time I Drank a Cocktail with a Human Toe in it in Dawson City

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